Glyoxylic Acid 50% · Hair-Smoothing Active

Mechanism of action: Human hair is about 90 % keratin by dry weight. The polypeptide chains of this protein are held together by five types of bonds: disulfide bridges, peptide bonds, salt bridges, hydrogen bonds and Van der Waals forces. Straightening curly hair is achieved by breaking and modifying these bonds that hold the polypeptide chains together. Glyoxylic acid's smoothing mechanism is based on acid cleavage of the bonds between chains and the formation of new intermolecular bonds. These bonds form through the reaction of glyoxylic acid's two carbonyl groups with the sulfur and amino groups present in keratin. Applying heat combined with mechanical stress—pressing the hair with a flat iron at 200–230 °C/392–446 °F—completes the glyoxylic acid smoothing technique. The smoothing process therefore involves chemical breaking of existing bonds under acidic conditions, plus mechanical smoothing with heat. The smooth, long-lasting finish results from changes in the relative positions of adjacent polypeptide chains within the hair fiber.

Hair smoothing products.

An organic acid with smoothing, straightening and conditioning effects on hair. As the smallest aldehyde acid, it can penetrate the hair cuticle and react with keratin; it does not contain formaldehyde. It breaks, under acidic conditions, the bonds that hold keratin's polypeptide chains together, followed by the formation of new bonds (cross-links). Provides long-lasting smoothing of the hair fiber, improving manageability and appearance without the hair damage or scalp irritation typical of hydroxide- or thioglycolate-based products.

Storage: Keep in tightly closed containers protected from light.

Precautions: Wear gloves and safety glasses.

Technical information for formulators: This sheet describes industrial uses of the raw material in the development of cosmetic products. It is not an efficacy claim for any finished product. The person responsible for the formulation must validate the concentration, compatibility and claims of their product in accordance with applicable regulations.

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